If you have a senior dog, it is a good idea to keep them mentally alert.  This can add to their quality of life.  It’s exciting to learn new things.  Don’t you feel satisfaction when you learn how to do something new?

Jaymi Heimbuch of Mother Nature Network wrote this article on tricks to teach an older dog.  He attaches videos below each trick to demonstrate how to teach the skill.

You know your dog’s physical ability, so adjust the level of physical requirement for your dog’s comfort.

Jaymi went over a number of tricks.  Here I’ll just mention 3 of them.

• Teach your dog to ring a bell to let you know that he needs to use the bathroom (isn’t this handy?)
• Teach your dog to walk backwards.  He is learning to use his body differently.  (Maybe you can teach him to do Michael Jackson’s moon walk. :-))
• Teach your dog to find something with his nose–scent work.

Here’s an excerpt from the article:

Ring a bell to go out

Your senior dog may be house-trained, but is he also trained to tell you precisely when he wants or needs to go out? You can give your older dog a great tool to tell you what he needs by teaching him to ring a bell as a cue to go outside.

Back up

An interesting trick to teach your senior dog is how to walk backwards. It’s a great one to help with getting him to think about using his body a little differently. Most dogs aren’t really aware of where their hind end is — it’s just the part that follows their front end. By teaching your dog to walk backward, you’re teaching him to be aware of where his back legs are going. It’s great for both mental and physical agility.

Find it

Keep life interesting for your dog by creating a game around using his nose to find a reward. This is a great trick especially for dogs whose hearing or sight has diminished with age. The trick teaches them to use their noses even more purposefully, using scent work to find the hidden treat or toy.

You can read the entire article here.

Article source:  Jaymi Heimbuch of Mother Nature Network

Image source:  Totallyirelephant on Imgur

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CLICK here to see more beautiful lab puppies

Basically, it’s caring for a lab puppy from about 7 weeks old until they are 1 year old.  Then they go on to guide dog training school.  The role of the volunteer is to socialize the puppy to the world around them.  The training is different from that of a dog owner.  You want the puppy to learn not to be distracted by what’s going on around it because when they are working, they can’t be running after other dogs, jumping up at strangers, barking at whomever and whatever.  The part that you may not like is saying goodbye when they are ready for guide dog school to prepare for service to someone who needs them.  You can always volunteer to train another puppy.  You can search for Guide Dogs For The Blind for more information.

Article source:  Becky Barnicoat of Buzzfeed

Image source:  Flickr via Buzzfeed

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Sherry is very thorough on this topic.  If you are in the situation of bringing home a cat to introduce to your dog, or vice versa, this is an excellent article to read to help you through the introduction.

I like how she looks at the individual personality of the dog and cat.  Even if the dog had past experience living with a cat, each one is different.  Same with cats.

She recommends that we pay attention to the body language of the cat and the dog when they first meet.  That will indicate to us how to proceed.  If the cat’s ears are back and his tail are swishing back and forth, she’s not feeling pleased about this meeting as of now.

And if your dog has a strong prey drive, look for warning signs such as getting very fixated on the cat, stiffen up, stare at the cat, bark, or whine.  If you see this behavior, do not let the dog near the cat.  Not yet anyway, until you desensitize the dog to the cat’s presence.

Below this photo is an excerpt from Sherry’s article:

Here’s an excerpt from Sherry’s article:

Some dogs do fine living with cats; others simply cannot live safely with felines. Sometimes, a dog can live with certain cats (depending on their age, temperament and activity level), but not others. Even if your dog has successfully lived with cats in the past, it is important to remember that each dog and each cat is an individual and therefore each introduction is different.

Slow and steady desensitization

If your dog is too fixated on the cat, you can try desensitization, the goal of which is to reduce your dog’s reaction to the cat by gradually increasing her exposure to him.

To begin desensitization, let the dog view the cat briefly through the gate, and then get the dog to focus on something else, such as playing with a toy or practicing cues….Praise and reward the dog for being able to focus elsewhere. Continue to give the dog short viewings of the cat throughout the day.

Introducing kittens and puppies

If you are introducing a kitten to a dog, keep in mind that kittens may not have any fear of dogs, so you must watch the dog carefully. Because kittens are small and want to run and play, dogs with a strong prey drive may be very excited by a kitten’s movements. Even if your dog is OK with your adult cats, it is important to watch her closely when she’s with a kitten.

CLICK here to read the entire article.

Article source:  Sherry Woodard on Best Friends

Image source:  via Best Friends

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When I visit my mature Corgi friend, he acts like a puppy around me.  That has been our way of relating.  With another person, he may act an older age.  I filter advice I read with my personal knowledge of my friend, and select only what may be of value to him.  I listen to HIM.

The author wrote that mature dogs still benefit from exercise and fresh air outside.  If they need physical support, maybe a pet stroller would give them the fresh air they love.  (A personal note:  I’m sure they’ll also enjoy seeing their dog friends.)

See if they prefer to have their diet modified.  Do they prefer softer meat?  Or have their food warmed up a little?

Observe how much exercise your friend wants.  How long a walk is enjoyable to him?  Does he look like he is sore afterwards?

I personally think that our expectations could affect others’ health.  Just like if a person is expected to act old, they may.

Below this photo is an excerpt from the article:

Invest in age appropriate toys such as chew toys and balls. They may not want to run after a stick like they used to, but they will still need exercise. 

A more senior diet will be required. Heat their food to make it more appealing and ensure that they have a small amount of sunflower oil in their diet.

Keep dog walks short and concise. Go for walks in 20 minute bursts twice per day. Your hound will still need to be exercised to some degree…

You can read the entire article here Dog Lovers Dog

Image source:  Harris Walker on Flickr

The post How To Keep Your Mature Dog Healthy And Fit appeared first on Doggie Outpost.

The ingredients you’ll need:  thyme and parsley stuffing mix, oats, flour, egg, hot water.

Below the photo is an excerpt from Jamie’s article AND a link to the recipe.  Remember to convert the temperature into Fahreinheit.  The article is from UK.

Here’s a brief excerpt from Jamie’s article.

The puppy of Bev (our canine dietitian) is teething at the moment and to remedy this and save her coffee table from getting chewed to bits she made this puppy biscuit recipe which is rock hard and satisfying for emerging teeth.  These biscuits are large and thick for a reason so if you break them up into small treats then you’re missing the point. 

CLICK here to follow the recipe.

Article source:  Jamie Shanks of BDWS

Image source:  chlsgraphy on Flickr

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If you’ve been thinking about fostering a dog, I think this article written by Jane Harrell in Petfinder on questions to ask before you foster a dog would be valuable.  She also shares at the end of the article how rewarding the experience has been for her when the pet found a perfect home.

Some of the questions Jane would ask about the dog include:

• How is he around children?  Cats?  Other dogs?  Or strangers?
• Is there any medical concerns?
• Are there any behavioral problems?
• Is he house-trained?

And some questions to ask about the fostering process would include:

• Who is responsible for medical bills?
• If I have a problem, who do I contact?  And how quickly does that person respond?
• What happens if it’s decided later on that this dog is considered “unadoptable”?
• Can I adopt him if I want?

Below this photo is an excerpt from Jane’s article

Here’s an excerpt from Jane’s article:

Fostering pets has been one of the most rewarding experiences of my life and is something I encourage everyone I know to do. But I’ve learned some big lessons along the way.

For the experience to turn out well for the foster parent and the rescue organization (and, most of all, the dog), it’s crucial that all parties communicate and be clear about their expectations and responsibilities.

1. How did he come to be with the shelter or rescue group and how long has he been here?
2. Why does he need a foster home now?
3. Does he have any medical concerns or need medication?
4. Do you know how he is with kids, cats, dogs and/or strangers? Can my children or pets meet him before I commit to fostering him?

CLICK here to read the entire article.

Article source:  Jane Harrell on Petfinder

Image source:  JeffreyW on Flickr

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Before reading the article, the reason that came to my mind immediately was that maybe it just feels good.  Just like the way we like to feel a nice thick bath towel.  Or why some of us like to walk on carpet.

The author also suggests that it may be another way to mark their space.  Especially if scooting or spraying is not allowed in the house.  Rubbing their face and body on the carpet is another way to leave their natural scent, making this THEIR home.

Below this photo is an excerpt from the article.

Here’s an excerpt from the article:

Dogs are very physical creatures, which spend a reasonable amount of their time scratching, licking themselves, grooming themselves and generally tending to their own physical needs. But for some dogs, this doesn’t seem to be enough, and your dog might develop something of an obsession about rubbing their faces on the furniture or the carpet, sometimes quite vigorously!

Allergies

Allergies in the dog can present themselves in a variety of different ways, and can be caused by a whole multitude of things too. Whether your dog suffers from an allergy to something in their food or their environment, certain parts of the body may become uncontrollably itchy to your dog, causing them to rub and scratch the sensitive spots on their faces or other areas on anything that has the right texture to provide them with relief.

Problems with the collar

If your dog wears a collar all of the time, it is important to make sure that it fits properly and is not too snug or too loose, and that the shape and style of the collar are a good match for your dog. Look out for spots where the collar might be pinching, rubbing, or causing bare spots, and replace it ASAP. Also, bear in mind that some dogs can be sensitive to the anti-parasitic agents contained in flea collars, so if your dog wears a flea collar, consider replacing this for a normal collar.

CLICK here to read the entire article.

Article source:  Pets4Homes

Image source:  jqpubliq on Flickr

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I’m sure many dog owners have already removed potentially hazardous objects that are within reach of their dogs.  I appreciate the tips in this article because some of them have not crossed my mind.

For example, the type of mulch we use in our yard, where we place the bar-be-que grill, and sticks that our dogs pick u on their walks can pose potential harm to our friends.

Below this photo is an excerpt from the article.  There are quite a few tips.  I’m only including 3 of them here.  Feel free to read about the rest at your leisure.

Here’s an excerpt from the article:

#2  The type of mulch you choose.  Mulch containing theobromine is poisonous to animals. The most common is called  cocoa bean mulch.   Most dogs are attracted by the smell of fresh mulch… some view it as a tasty treat, while others love to dig in mulched areas.

[When you are reading the original article, click on the link that says More About Dogs And Mulch.]

#8  Your grill’s location. It wasn’t until recently when we were outside grilling that I noticed our dog’s long, fluffy tail stands taller than the top of the grill itself. I quickly realized that this could become a problem if he were sniffing around the grill (looking for dropped food pieces or licking random grease splatters) and  his tail brushed along the back of the grill and touched the flames themselves! (Our grill has a grate-type backing to allow air in & out of the grilling area. This area is clearly wide enough for the dog’s tail to pass through.)

#9  Sticks. While they’re fun for fetching, they can also cause a bit of distress in your dog’s intestinal tract, or become deadly thanks to their sharp edges. When I worked at the vet, a good number of the dogs that came in suffering from diarrhea were known stick-chewers. Sticks are usually loaded with dirt & bacteria, and sometimes it just doesn’t agree with your dog’s system. We frequently sent dogs home with a prescription for metronidazole to clear up the problem. Another problem with sticks: they’re sharp and pointy. Entire sticks, or bits & pieces, can get lodged in a dog’s mouth or throat. This can occur during a simple game of fetch, so beware.

CLICK here to read the entire article.

Article source:  Dog the Fun Times Guide

Image source:  rbennett661 on Flickr

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I just finished reading an article from Dog Adoption and Training Guide.  If you are thinking about getting a dog that tends to bark less, this article offers a list of 16 breeds.   Many of them are loyal, good with kids.  Some are friendly with other dogs, some are less sociable with them.  Some of them require less exercise (that gives you a break!)

A few of them are:  Bassett Hounds, Pugs, St. Bernard, French Bulldog, Greyhound

Below this photo is an excerpt from the article.

Here’s an excerpt from the article:

Bassett Hounds

The poor basset is one of those breeds that is a slow-moving, easy-going, quiet member of the family that gets along with children, loves family and loves to sniff and roam around. He doesn’t need a lot of exercise. This guy is generally friendly with other dogs and pets. This breed “bays” when excited but is essentially a barkless dog.

Pug

The Pug is a sure contender for the toy breeds, but not the barking dogs groups. She’s a little comedy act, always showing off and acting silly. She’s quiet and laid-back, but stubborn and self-confident too. She will settle on anyone’s lap she can find. She’s a good watchdog, and needs minimal exercise.

St. Bernard

These dogs weigh up to 200 pounds. The breed is calm, quiet and very gentle. They were used to pull sleds and carts in the middle-ages. Today, they are more a companion and family dog. It’s one of the quiet dog breeds. The St. Bernard is tolerant with children although there’s a risk of injury due to the dog’s extreme weight and size. The breed is too friendly to be much of a guardian.

CLICK here to read about other quiet dog breeds.

Article source:  Dog Adoption And Training Guide

Image source:  sunsets_for_you on Flickr

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Bonnie talks about what to take with you when you take your dog on a hike or on a longer trip.  She suggests having your dog carry her own supply.  Dogs can carry 1/3 of their body weight.  She also suggests getting a first aid pet kit, calling ahead to national parks for regulations about dogs–whether they even allow pets.

She even includes a website on where to stay with your dog.

Below this photo is an excerpt from Bonnie’s article.

When you arrive at your destination, give your pet time to adjust to his new surroundings. Take him on a walk. Put his things out. Hang out as he gets use to all of the different sounds and smells. This will help him feel relaxed and calm when you do have to leave him alone.

Before you take a big trip with your pet, go for some smaller trial runs. Stay over at friends’ houses to even rent a hotel room close to home. This will give you both practice and will make sure you know exactly what you need to have on hand. This will also decrease your pet’s anxiety about new people and places.

…make sure you have all pertinent information such as important medical history and vaccination records.

Pack a Bag-Make sure to bring everything your pet may need including an extra leash, their favorite toy, any needed medication, and plenty of food. You don’t want to risk the local pet store not caring the needed things to keep your pup happy! If you have a sensitive pet, you should also pack a couple of containers of your local water since some pets will resist drinking water that tastes different from what they are use too.

CLICK here to read the entire article and watch a couple of videos.

Article source:  Smart Animal Training

Image source:  Deb@deb-gray.com Gray on Flickr

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